rod222
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Posts: 11,107
What I collect: Worldwide Stamps, Ephemera and Catalogues
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Post by rod222 on Jan 26, 2014 0:00:50 GMT
Has anyone every used A4 size paper? When I look at videos of European stamp albums, they are all on A4 paper and 4 ring binders. I like the look of it. Problem is, if I switched to A4, I could never buy anything retail in the US. It would all be mail order. Well that explains, why, on occaisions I buy an album page from an auction, they are always scissored. I wasn't aware of the common larger pane being the US choice. I have nothing but praise for the 4 ring binder option, that regime really looks after the weight of pages, no elongated page holes. I am a huge fan of the A4 page, I use it in all my albums, but there is a huge problem with the choice of interleaving, I like the A4 because pages can be slipped easily into plastic cover sheets, but therein lies the problem, the stability of the plastic lies unknown, until I get a lab report on the "safe" plastic pockets.
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Andy Pastuszak
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Post by Andy Pastuszak on Jan 26, 2014 1:50:19 GMT
The Standard US Letter page used in the US, Canada and parts of Mexico is 215.9mm x 279.4mm and is punched for a 3 ring binder.
The A4 page is 210mm x 279mm and is punched for a 4 ring binder.
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Post by ChrisW on Jan 29, 2014 16:39:10 GMT
I print my Steiner pages on Stapes 67 lb cover stock paper, cream color. It works fine with my HP inkjet printer and has a nice look and feel. I have been putting them into a regular 3-ring binder (also from Staples), but recently decided I wanted something better and just ordered several Vario Classic G binders (they are being shipped as we speak!).
Also (in case anyone is interested), I hinge mount most of my stamps, but for MNH stamps or ones with a higher CV, I used clear Hawid mounts (these are open on three sides). I like these because they can be trimmed to fit any size stamp, and they still show the box frame around the stamp, which matches the look of the hinged stamps.
Chris
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Post by stampgeezer on Jan 29, 2014 18:07:46 GMT
Nice, I pretty much do the same. I just got some nice Paraguay Zepps from a member and I will use clear mounts for them on the steiners. Most stamps that go into the steiners I hinge.
Theron.
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Post by classicalstamps on Jan 29, 2014 20:42:40 GMT
I like the A4 because pages can be slipped easily into plastic cover sheets, but therein lies the problem,the stability of the plastic lies unknown, until I get a lab report on the "safe" plastic pockets. I have used plastic sheets on A4 paper for more than 10 years. I never had any problems with them.
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rod222
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Posts: 11,107
What I collect: Worldwide Stamps, Ephemera and Catalogues
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Post by rod222 on Jan 29, 2014 22:26:12 GMT
RE : I have used plastic sheets on A4 paper for more than 10 years. I never had any problems with them.
I have to say, that is extremely encouraging. I was given a collection in the past, where stamps had been collected in Polyurethane? flexible coin pockets, a great idea for mounting, but all the stamps were ruined, the ink had migrated badly, going by the date of the collection, I would estimate they had been in there 20-30 years.
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maerkat
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What I collect: Danish area Cinderellas
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Post by maerkat on Feb 8, 2014 15:06:54 GMT
I would think that as long as you use an acid-free, archival quality paper that should be sufficient. But would a colored paper be a problem if the stamps are hinged and actually in direct contact with the paper?
I have been thinking about my own cinderella collections. I have the album page software. I am thinking of printing on a heavy paper or light card stock (haven't quite figured out what I prefer yet). But rather than punching them I will put the pages into archival quality page protectors. I will put the stamps into mounts (my preference is Hawid, since they are open on here sides and can be trimmed to any size desired - important when dealing with odd-sized cinderellas). I prefer the black mounts - only because I like the look of the contrasting black border that shows off the margins/perfs of the stamp. (although I would probably use clear mounts for stamps with very dark borders).
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rod222
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Posts: 11,107
What I collect: Worldwide Stamps, Ephemera and Catalogues
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Post by rod222 on Feb 8, 2014 19:35:45 GMT
"I will put the pages into archival quality page protectors."
If you come across any, Ray, would be delighted to hear your experience, and source. I use Australian protectors, but still trying to get an analysis of the plastic makeup.
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Post by ChrisW on Feb 9, 2014 13:30:07 GMT
Ray, I had never thought about the "color issue" regarding paper I used to print my Steiner pages However, since the packaging says that it is "acid-free" I assume that that includes the finished product. Also, if you think about it, most of the preprinted albums are some version of cream colored and not white. Chris
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maerkat
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What I collect: Danish area Cinderellas
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Post by maerkat on Feb 9, 2014 16:53:46 GMT
Rod - I have not done any in-depth chemical analysis of sheet protectors, but most of the ones available here at a local office supply store (Staples, Office Depot etc.) are marketed as "archival safe" and "acid free" or "pvc free".
Chris - I am not criticizing the use of any particular papers or such. I am sure that an acid-free or archival quality paper would be fine. I was merely posing the question about anything that the stamp itself might come in contact with, such as paper, ink, plastic page protectors, etc.
Some older stamps or postal stationery were not printed using archival quality materials, so the collecting medium may not cause a problem, but the actual item being collected. I am not a scientist by any stretch, and I am not trying to find trouble where there is none, but only trying to bring up subjects that warrant consideration. I have put a photocopied page into an "archival quality" page protector and had the print adhere to the inside of the protector. In this case it was the fault of the sheet with the printing, not the page protector.
I know that most of the posts regarding hinging stamps directly onto paper agree that it is only done with used (or no gum) stamps, but I would suggest using good quality philatelic mounts for any higher value items, only to isolate the stamp itself from any other medium. I figure that if I put the stamp into a mount, then I don't worry as much about the paper, ink or page protector, because none of these will come in direct contact with the item.
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rod222
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Posts: 11,107
What I collect: Worldwide Stamps, Ephemera and Catalogues
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Post by rod222 on Feb 9, 2014 22:06:03 GMT
Rod - I have not done any in-depth chemical analysis of sheet protectors, but most of the ones available here at a local office supply store (Staples, Office Depot etc.) are marketed as "archival safe" and "acid free" or "pvc free". Fair comment Ray, even when I do nail down a report on the Aust stuff, I doubt it comes with any guarantees. Often the "marketing" is done by the producers, and probably China, so take with a little bit of salt. Plastics are a pertinent area for great speculation, without causing too much stress, here is an image of branded mounts everyone here is using, you can see some show no apparent reaction whilst others, well. Not that this should concern people with good stamp husbandry skills The items were left 30 days in direct day sunlight.
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huckles888
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Mudgee NSW Australia
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Post by huckles888 on Feb 9, 2014 23:20:28 GMT
Hey Rod have you tried asking for the underlying MDSS for the product that you buy?
MDSS = Material Data Safety Sheet
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Andy Pastuszak
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Post by Andy Pastuszak on Feb 9, 2014 23:27:03 GMT
What about the archival quality of the ink and/or toner? I don't use genuine Epson ink. I use refilled cartridges. I wonder how they stack up in archival quality...
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rod222
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What I collect: Worldwide Stamps, Ephemera and Catalogues
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Post by rod222 on Feb 10, 2014 0:46:12 GMT
Hey Rod have you tried asking for the underlying MDSS for the product that you buy? MDSS = Material Data Safety Sheet Hello Ian, didn't know such an animal existed. I'll ask Officeworks. (I can imagine the reply) I have not received any response from the testing laboratory you suggested, but shall persevere. I have posted images of stamps in trashy plastic (looks like PVC) display packs that have lasted 50 years without any noticeable detioration, yet stamps in that thick PVC coin pockets, sucked the life out of US definitives in under 30 years. I imagine a lot has to do with how sheets are kept, ie heat, humidity etc etc. Australian National Archives sell Plastic archival pockets / sleeves, yet from what I remember, will not accept an A4 sheet, (or were not 4 hole punched) which was hard to understand and disappointing.
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rod222
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Posts: 11,107
What I collect: Worldwide Stamps, Ephemera and Catalogues
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Post by rod222 on Feb 10, 2014 0:53:11 GMT
What about the archival quality of the ink and/or toner? I don't use genuine Epson ink. I use refilled cartridges. I wonder how they stack up in archival quality... I have an awkward feeling about ink, it is very unstable moisture wise, since going over to toner I feel a lot happier. My collection doesn't warrant concern regarding ink, I should imagine the stamps would get remounted within 100 years and I think toner will last the distance. I suppose anything could happen really, toner contains plastic, and it may break down and migrate.
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Philatarium
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What I collect: Primarily focused on Japan, but lots of other material catches my eye as well ...
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Post by Philatarium on Feb 10, 2014 3:05:36 GMT
What about the archival quality of the ink and/or toner? I don't use genuine Epson ink. I use refilled cartridges. I wonder how they stack up in archival quality... I have an awkward feeling about ink, it is very unstable moisture wise, since going over to toner I feel a lot happier. My collection doesn't warrant concern regarding ink, I should imagine the stamps would get remounted within 100 years and I think toner will last the distance. I suppose anything could happen really, toner contains plastic, and it may break down and migrate. Just on this point: I'm not sure I could ever find it again, but I seem to remember reading an evaluation from a credible philatelic source, where I believe the conclusion was that laser toner could be a problem if the stamp touched it directly, as the toner could adhere to the stamp with long-term contact. I believe its conclusion was that inkjet cartridges could be safer, although the risk there is that moisture can cause those inks to run. The only reason I perhaps remember this at all is that I would've thought the answer would've been the opposite -- that inkjet was more risky since it seems so, well, unstable. Perhaps someone can generate the right keywords to find this evaluation online. As a first guess, I'm wondering if it came from the Collector's Club of Chicago, where I believe they reported the Salm Foundation evaluations about plastics and long-term stamp storage. I'm sorry my recollections on this are so vague. -- Dave
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Post by jkjblue on Feb 10, 2014 3:23:18 GMT
Ah-Ha! I knew there had to be a reason why I use ink-jet printers for page making, besides cost of course.
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Philatarium
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Post by Philatarium on Feb 10, 2014 3:31:29 GMT
Jim: And I remember thinking that, if your album page is getting wet, then you've got bigger problems than fugitive ink!
But then I realized I was looking at it from a "mint with gum" perspective. For an all-used page, then the problem is the ink running, not the moisture itself (in most cases, anyway).
-- Dave
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Post by jkjblue on Feb 10, 2014 4:09:35 GMT
And the ink would have to get past the mount.
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Zuzu
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Post by Zuzu on Feb 10, 2014 4:34:51 GMT
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maerkat
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What I collect: Danish area Cinderellas
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Post by maerkat on Feb 10, 2014 15:25:12 GMT
It looks like most of the commonly available (at least here in the US) page protectors are now marketed as "acid-free", "archival quality", "PVC-free" or similar phrasing. However, as rod mentioned, these are marketing terms and should be taken with a grain of salt. I looked at the site Zuzu referenced (Australian National Archives) and they suggested avoiding PVC but polyester or polypropylene film is safe. I suspect that Mylar is also safe, and better quality mounts, such as Showgard and Hawid are probably fine. The Arthur Salm Foundation issued a series of reports some years back, regarding the quality of philatelic supplies. The reports are on the CCC (Collectors Club of Chicago) website, but several of the links to the reports are listed as "under construction". The report on album paper is available, at: www.collectorsclubchicago.org/album-paper.php
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tomiseksj
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Woodbridge, Virginia, USA
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What I collect: Worldwide stamps/covers, Cinderellas, Ohio Prepaid Sales Tax Receipts, U.S. WWII Ration ephemera
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Post by tomiseksj on Feb 10, 2014 16:00:22 GMT
Rod,
A quick skim of 40 8.5x11" sheet protector products listed on the Avery website showed two vinyl sheet protectors and one recycled polypropylene protector that were identified as being "non-archival-safe."
The remaining 37 products were identified as "archival-safe" and made of polypropylene.
I emailed their customer service and asked the parameters upon which they base their "archival-safe" claim.
If Avery responds I'll post their answer here.
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Post by classicalstamps on Feb 10, 2014 16:53:19 GMT
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Philatarium
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Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 1,032
What I collect: Primarily focused on Japan, but lots of other material catches my eye as well ...
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Post by Philatarium on Feb 10, 2014 20:01:30 GMT
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rod222
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What I collect: Worldwide Stamps, Ephemera and Catalogues
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Post by rod222 on Feb 10, 2014 22:24:02 GMT
A quick skim of 40 8.5x11" sheet protector products listed on the Avery website showed two vinyl sheet protectors and one recycled polypropylene protector that were identified as being "non-archival-safe." The remaining 37 products were identified as "archival-safe" and made of polypropylene. I emailed their customer service and asked the parameters upon which they base their "archival-safe" claim. If Avery responds I'll post their answer here.
And I shall post Officeworks Aust response if I get one. Surprised to see "recycled polypropolene" is non archival. I keep all my stamps in polypropolene (ditched my glassines) and wasn't aware there was such a product as "recycled polypropolene"
If I get really motivated, I'll chase up Australian Archives and post what they have for sale.
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Andy Pastuszak
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Post by Andy Pastuszak on Feb 11, 2014 2:49:04 GMT
Something else I have learned recently when it comes to toner and album pages. When you try and print onto thicker paper (cover stock, heavier bond paper) or textured paper, the fuser usually needs to be much hotter to get the toner to stick to the page. I have an HP LaserJet 4200, and the fuser heat can be set at 3 levels 1, 2, and 3. When you print onto "cardstock," the fuser cranks up from 1 to 2. But the printer needs to KNOW that you're printing on thicker paper. So, look through your print dialog box and see if there is an option to select your paper type.
I was printing onto Staples 65 lb cover stock, and noticed that the toner started to come of the page. I thought I had a bad fuser, and was loathe to spend the money on a new fuser. I found out that the issue was that when I printed, the printer thought I was just feeding it plain paper, and the fuser did not get hot enough for the toner to stick to the page.
I actually went into the firmware of my printer and change the cardstock setting from 2 to 3 to really make sure the toner sticks to the page. That didn't help much until I figured out that I needed to change the paper type to cardstock in the print dialog box. Soon as I did that, and the manual feed asked to feed a piece of cardstock, the toner stuck very well to the page. I needed to take a key to it to get the toner to come off.
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scb
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Post by scb on Feb 11, 2014 6:35:47 GMT
Re, the ink vs. laser discussion... Laser toner is not ink. It's plastic (usually polymer I believe) and iron particles. Like Andy observed, it's behavior depends largely on the temperature and print material used. But bottom line is that it's actually plastic you are using, and it will behave like plastic on the very long run (think no longer than how all the paper printed with toner is handled when recycled). So I would be very cautious when putting it anywhere near my stamps. As far as inkjet inks go, they're all different. Even big names such as HP use number of different ink compositions on their products. Some are 'generic', whereas some are aimed for specific paper / usage (and these are usually non-bleed/water-resistant/archival quality). Usually the more you pay, the better you get. Personally I'd never ever use or recommend 'el cheapo' DIY refill cartridges for anything.... Some interesting documents to show what I mean... Here's a small broschure from Epson - www.epson.com/pdf/LightfastCPD_15334R2.pdf . It compares light permanence (in years) of different paper & ink combinations. Depending on the combination used, permanency can vary from 5 years to 74 years. HP has got similar studies (that are very much in favor of HP papers - which most are archival quality, and ALL ligning free). And... So, the entire question - "What paper is best for printing..." is flawed. It's really about the combination of what brand of paper You use + what brand of ink/toner You use + what type of environment you store the output (heat, humidity etc. all ads up). Instead, I'd start with "I've got printer X with ink/toner Y. What paper does the manufacturer recommend for it?". For example my HP Photosmart uses HP364 color cartridges. From HP webpage, I can find that HP Advanced Photo Papers are guaranteed to produce water-, smudge- and fade-resistant print (tested per ISO 11798 and ISO 18909). How it behaves if printed on something else (non HP paper) is absolute 'guesswork'. just my 5 (geeky) cents worth, -k-
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Zuzu
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Post by Zuzu on Feb 11, 2014 14:31:51 GMT
Instead, I'd start with "I've got printer X with ink/toner Y. What paper does the manufacturer recommend for it?" So well put, I had to quote it in big, bold letters!
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Andy Pastuszak
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Post by Andy Pastuszak on Feb 14, 2014 23:27:32 GMT
Well, I'm not willing to spend a fortune on my printing needs. I am going to continue to buy el-cheapo refilled ink cartridges, print pages and use mounts. I figure if the stamp is in a mount, I make sure not to print the images that would behind the stamp, and the paper is cotton, I'm good. There is only so much one can do without spending a fortune.
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scb
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Post by scb on Feb 15, 2014 7:35:06 GMT
andy... I share your pain about the cost of ink, but here's my reasoning... You build and print your pages with great pride and care. You even use high quality materials (cotton paper, mounts etc). But it's beyond my comprehension why you want to them to look like this some day? Above photo (c) www.allion.com/TestReport/Genuine%20Ink%20and%20Refill%20Ink%20Reliability%20Comparison%20Test%20Report%20.pdfIt's been proven time and again, that a chain is as strong as it's weakest link... I know that stamp album pages are less prone to change as they are stored in dark and dry location. But trust me, there will be notable changes when you hit the 5-10-15-20 years mark (I've got some painful experience on this matter). -k-
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