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Post by Stamper49 on Jul 12, 2024 10:05:48 GMT
Is there a reason why Vidiforms, the manufacturer, states that Super Safe Stamp Lift fluid should be used on the back of the paper the stamp is mounted on?
I have just acquired a vintage stamp album with "stuck down" stamps and I'm looking for the best way to safely remove the, mostly used, stamps, there is even a Penny Black stuck down.
Is there a reason not to use Stamp Lift Fluid on the face of a stamp, to release a "stuck down" stamp?
Is there a better method to release "stuck down" stamps? Without tearing the album apart.
Thank you,
Norman
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paul1
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Post by paul1 on Jul 12, 2024 10:40:09 GMT
hi Stamper49 - sorry, regret unable to help re the question as to Vidiforms liquid - obviously, ultimately the question would be best answered by knowing what type of adhesive the perpetrator of this problem had used (though appreciate we can't know that) - Araldite might prove a real problem, but something like Gloy or flour and water paste might be less so. Have you yet tried using simply warm water and soaking for an hour or two - always best to use the least invasive method first? Appreciate it wouldn't be ideal, but at the end of the day if these stamps simply won't shift and damage looks likely if you pursue more heavyweight action, you might simply cut round them and leave on the backing paper, permanently.
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stainlessb
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Post by stainlessb on Jul 12, 2024 14:27:53 GMT
I have a bottle of "New improved" Super Safe Stamp Lift and it makes no mention of back only.... Says it will separate stamps stuck together. Whatever it is is, it is water soluble.
Unless you have mint stamps that are stuck, which will have disturbed gum after Stamp Lift or
If you are trying to save the album pages.... If you 'soak' the pages enough to get under the stamps the may very well be stained after the stamp is removed. If stamps on both sides, then it may require more Stamp Lift.
I guess if you think the album has more value, leave as is.
If not, unless there are stamps with fugitive inks or printed on chalky paper or, I'd soak in water with a drop or two of a clear detergent. A quick rinse, blot and into a drying book or between blotters
If sulfurized, that can be addressed later
Good luck, however you decide
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Beryllium Guy
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What I collect: Worldwide Stamps 1840-1930
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Post by Beryllium Guy on Jul 12, 2024 14:52:36 GMT
Thanks for your post, Norman ( Stamper49 ) and for your responses, paul1 and stainlessb Norman, is the album that you want to preserve a hard-bound book or one with loose-leaf pages? If it is one of the old, hard-bound ones, then you need to decide how important it is to preserve it intact. In my experience, and I have several vintage albums with mounted stamps in them, it is very difficult to remove stamps that have been stuck down for decades without damaging either the stamp or the album page or both. In most cases, I have wanted the stamps more, and I have either disassembled or simply cut up the pages to soak the stamps off in warm water. In cases where I really wanted to preserve the album, I have had to leave it as is, with the stamps stuck where they are. I have had one interesting case of a hard-bound album, printed c.1901-1910, with lots of stamps stuck down on the pages, often on both sides. Luckily, that album wasn't too large dimensionally. The pages were smaller than a standard sheet of notebook paper. The binding was already in poor condition, but I liked the page headers, and I wanted to preserve those. So, I took the whole thing apart, and I soaked entire pages, one at a time, using a 9" x 12" Pyrex glass baking dish, which was big enough for the page to lie flat. That way, I was able to save the pages and the stamps, but I had to destroy what was left of the binding in the process. I was able to press-flatten and dry the individual pages using the same method I do for the stamps, and it worked quite well. Of course, if you have a loose-leaf album, you should be able to remove individual pages without damaging them and treat them one at a time, if that's what you really want to do. In the end, you will need to decide what's more important for you. And if you do decide to attempt any removal process, do as little damage as possible. Good luck with whatever you decide!
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Post by Stamper49 on Jul 15, 2024 10:28:50 GMT
Beryllium Guy paul1 and stainlessb Thank you for your posts. It's a hardbound Oppen's Postage Stamp Album Abridged-Edition, 1883, with a broken spine. And as Beryllium Guy says, I'm more interested in the stamps, than the album. But I'm hesitant to soak whole pages because of the mix of stamps and possibility of fugitive ink, especially in the Great Britain section. I'm not sure how to spot "chalky paper" that stainlessb speaks to. I'm thinking that if I have to destroy the album to get at the stamps, I will at least keep the cover. Also, the ads in the back are interesting to peruse. Soaking the pages makes sense, if there are no fugitive inks, and some of the stamps appear to be dirty. My question arises out of Vidiforms directions on the back of their 4oz bottle of "New! Improved Super Safe Stamp Lift Fluid". Which states: "To remove stamps from backing paper dip brush in fluid and coat back of paper. Wait several seconds, then peel off.". The Vidiforms.com website is having issues and can't be reached at this time. I am still curious if there is a reason to soak the backing paper vs soaking the front of the stamp? It may be that a dryer stamp is easier, and safer, to "peel off" the backing paper, than a soaked stamp possibly tearing on removal? Could it be that the Stamp Lift Fluid might carry dirt/grease into the body of the stamp? Or is there something else going on?? Curious minds want to know. We're getting into high Summer, the heat is oppressive, and turning on a fan in my stamp area would be counter productive. Thank you, Norman
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paul1
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Post by paul1 on Jul 15, 2024 13:08:43 GMT
Hi Norman - those stamps that might benefit from cleaning, individually, can be treated once they're off the page. I think the rationale for soaking the back of the backing page, rather than the face of the stamp, would be the obvious one - which is that although most stamps can tolerate some liquid when 'soaking off paper', it's the adhesive here that we're trying to dissolve, so best to soak the back of the page paper and get at the glue that way, thus avoid making the stamp wet. There are some stamps where colours can dissolve or run, so as we don't know which ones then better not to wet the face of the stamp. One of the most popular adhesives prior to modern pva/Araldite glues was pearl glue aka animal glue, though for home use I recall my Mother making up some ordinary flour and water glue when I was very young. I don't think wetting the backing paper poses any risk in terms of dirt migrating into the stamp. Sorry to hear about the humidity - but if you can do a little work at the moment then perhaps the best way forward might be to cut a couple of stamps out of the backing page/sheet, and treat them individually by wetting the back of the paper with 'Stamp Lift Fluid' and see what happens. Presumably you have an idea as to which stamps are of negligible value as opposed to Mauritius 'blues' - so you might try those of very limited value first. Do please keep us up-dated:-)
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stainlessb
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Post by stainlessb on Jul 15, 2024 14:31:24 GMT
Hi Norman
The paper of the early album pages is quite likely a lower quality than the stamps and may 'soak up' the StampLift more quickly. However, unless you are trying to preserve any original gum, water is much less expensive, and you can add some dish soap that will help with any grime.
The chalky paper, here, you need to know what you're soaking, likewise, which stamps have fugitive inks. Fortunately the use of both as methods to deter removing postmarks and reusing did not remain in practice over a lengthy period of time and basically only is relevant to specific stamps.
My use of StampLift Fluid has been mainly to remove hinges from mint stamps, so always applied to the back, and I try to just brush onto the hinge. Whatever is in StampLift is water soluble, who know's maybe it's soap and water?!?
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Post by Stamper49 on Jul 16, 2024 11:28:44 GMT
stainlessb paul1 philatelia and Beryllium GuyHide glue, from my cabinet making experience, is brittle, and yellow, I don't have that in this old album, thankfully. When I was a kid we called paste made out of flour, "wheat paste" and used a ton of it in elementary school, it's grainier than whatever was used here. paul1 Humidity is not a problem here on the edge of the Great Basin Desert in Northeastern California, the Nevada border is about 15 miles away. Though this area is more humid than where we lived in Montana. This area is much hotter than what we were used to in Montana, last week it was 103F, this week around 93-96F. Thankfully it cooled off tonight, with most of the windows open. So, as we used to say, even in the US - in for a penny, in for a pound. I tried the Stamp Lift on a cheapo stamp, country is not important, and it worked rather well, though the backing paper was easy to push through when separating the stamp. After that I tackled the Penny Black, it came off the album page relatively easy after soaking the backing page, except for the center of the stamp, where a remnant of the page remained attached. With a bit more Stamp Lift applied, the album page remnant came off easily. Extreme care would be needed to avoid leaving holes in this album's pages, when removing stamps. I soaked the Penny Black in a dish of warm water, with a drop of the dish soap that Terri uses, Seventh Generation, rinsed it well, and it's now drying in a Desert Magic drying book. In a couple of days, I will try taking a picture of it, and also posing a question to the forum, asking the members if they can spot in what way I find this particular Penny Black more interesting than others. I haven't mounted a stamp in an album for around 60 years, and when I knew I was getting a Penny Black in, I held off, so that the "First Postage Stamp" would be the first postage stamp I would put in an album in a long, long, time. Thank you, Norman
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paul1
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Post by paul1 on Jul 16, 2024 13:48:08 GMT
Hi Norman - we're all following your progress with keenness:-) In terms of value, the imperf. 'blacks' usually need good margins - a clear view of the design and a nice red Maltese Cross looks good too - I think plate 11 used to be the most desirable printing for the blacks. Do you intend to use hinges or perhaps what are known as 'hawids' - cut-to-size mountable pockets that protect the stamp and avoid the use of a hinge - you stick the pocket to the backing page - these things wouldn't have been around when you were last collecting I don't think. Looking forward to seeing your results of the 'Stamp Lift'.
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stainlessb
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Post by stainlessb on Jul 16, 2024 14:01:53 GMT
Good morning Norman
you must be somewhere near Weed-Yreka I'm guessing by the description?
Most all the early GB QV stamps up to the 1882-84 issues can be soaked, for extended times. Not that they need to be, but it seems to cause no harm.
I'm in Sacramento and things are generally dry, using the Desert Magic books, the very next day.
cheers Stan
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Post by Stamper49 on Jul 16, 2024 14:21:26 GMT
stainlessb Hello Stan, Janesville, near Susanville, California. Eighty miles North, and a bit West of Reno, Nevada. Thank you for elaborating on the GB QV years with fugitive ink issues, that will help a lot. Your collecting area includes Belgium - I was excited to just find some off paper, canceled, #1 and 2 Belgium imperfs that will need further examination for determination. There are also some of the next series with perforations. Norman
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Post by Stamper49 on Jul 16, 2024 14:52:40 GMT
paul1Hello paul1, I bought a few sizes of Uni-Safe clear, top front load, mounts to try. I've been told they are a great improvement over the old clear crystal tubes we used back in the day. I also bought a Fiskars wire guide trimmer to size the length and heights of mounts, without the stamp inside, and will see how that goes. This particular Penny Black has 4 margins, though not perfect, but it's a stamp that I've been looking for since I was a kid. Thank you, Norman
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stainlessb
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Post by stainlessb on Jul 16, 2024 15:02:41 GMT
Norman
Ah, Lassen county. I spent many hours in and around when I worked for Fish and Game (Darrah Springs Hatchery)
The Belgium Epaulettes (#1 & 2) and the medallions 3-12 imperf, and 13-16 perforated. Quite a few color variants and paper types (thin/thick) . These are also safe to soak.
Stan
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Post by Stamper49 on Jul 17, 2024 11:44:01 GMT
stainlessbHello Stan, Darrah Springs Fish Hatchery, it's been awhile since we dropped in there, 65 years or so. The Belgium imperf's and perf's first/second series: looks like it will take some time to figure them out. Norman
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stainlessb
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Post by stainlessb on Jul 17, 2024 13:43:45 GMT
Norman check for watermarks # 3 - 5 have a framed watermark (and the frame is usually not centered, so you may only see partial), 6-8 has a watermark without frame. Later stamps have no watermark.
Hours of fun!
enjoy Stan
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Post by Stamper49 on Jul 18, 2024 9:10:38 GMT
stainlessb paul1 Beryllium Guy philateliaFinally - the Penny Black - small crown watermark. It took me over two hours to figure out how to take a picture through the laptop/digital microscope combination that would also load, and a way to crop it! No pain, no gain. Mounting will have to wait a bit, as I need more work space, and I have to do some heavy moving, and rearranging within and around my workspace. Did you ever notice how stuff just accumulates over the years? It will come in handy someday. I will, and am, losing weight so those forty year old shirts and pants might fit - maybe. And all the eBay items I brought home to list, and sell, will have to go back to the shop, and maybe I will finally get around to listing them this Winter, meanwhile down to the shop they go. The Stamp Lift Fluid saturated the album page quickly, from the back of the stamp, the Penny Black came loose quickly around the edges, but was still a bit clingy in the center. All in all I was pleased with the process. The stamp was then soaked in a dish of well water, with a bit of Seventh Generation dish soap, recommended by Terri, then a rinse and into a Desert Magic drying book. One day was all it took to dry in our semi-desert climate. I think that the margins of the stamp are whiter than the photo seems to show, but maybe that is due to my one good eye. , I will be starting a new thread with this photo, asking the forum their opinion on why I think this particular Penny Black is a little more special than many others. I can't upload an image through this quick reply, so if you are interested in seeing a picture of it, you will have to check out my new thread "Why do I think this Penny Black is a bit special?". Beryllium Guy I can't upload the image within this "Post Quick Reply" - the Upload "Images" button goes to a sign-in that does not recognize my user name or email address.
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