Deleted
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Post by Deleted on May 18, 2018 11:23:53 GMT
Posted by former member @poppaxxxx
Hi,
I have decided that I will collect used pre decimal currency Australian stamps.
if I am in a shop looking at a stamp that I might want to buy then what do I look for in that stamp? What makes a stamp a good buy and another not such a good buy?
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tomiseksj
Moderator 
Woodbridge, Virginia, USA
Posts: 6,385 
What I collect: Worldwide stamps/covers, Cinderellas, Ohio Prepaid Sales Tax Receipts, U.S. WWII Ration ephemera
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Post by tomiseksj on May 18, 2018 12:25:43 GMT
To borrow from the world of real estate, the answer to your question is "condition, condition, condition."
In addition to grade (centering), there are several condition factors that can increase a stamp's value such as wide margins, full original gum (if unused), fresh color, selvage, plate or die varieties, and unusual or rare cancels.
Faults will decrease the value of a stamp -- these include such things as thins, stains, tears, short or pulled perfs, pin holes, missing pieces, repairs, reperforation, oxidation, creases, natural inclusions, markings applied by collectors or dealers, etc.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on May 18, 2018 15:57:22 GMT
To borrow from the world of real estate, the answer to your question is "condition, condition, condition." Steve added to the original quote while I was uploading this, so, to add to his comments
Even if you do not expect for your collection to increase in value, it is a good idea to get the best you can for your money.
Condition 1
Damage
- Thin spots visible from the front or tears can basically render the stamp good as a filler only. If it is a valuable stamp, a small tear may still\have some value - 10-20% of retail.
- Creases depending on location and severity can significantly affect the value. A stamp can have a "bend" in it (generally only visible from the back) as opposed to a crease .
- Missing perfs or those cut too close affect value
- Damage from heavy and multiple hinges can be an issue
- If you get an imperforated stamp, 4 clear margins are best, if some sides cut into the design, pass it up, it may even be an altered stamp. Many services will not expertise an imperforate unless they are an attached pair.
- Unless valuable, repaired stamps should be avoided. Repairs can sometimes be difficult to notice.
- Writing on the back, especially in ink, is undesirable if applied by the dealer or collector. Marks or signatures from experts are fine but not always genuine.
Condition 2
Appearance
- Is the colour looking fresh or is it faded.
- Toning, stain, brown spots are detrimental and perhaps a sign of mildew and/or poor storage. Some issues from southern humid climates may have slight toning and it is to be expected.
- How well centered is the design. If the design cuts into the perforations, it reduces the value significantly however some early stamps particularly South America had centering issues.
- Condition of the gum if applicable. If the stamp is being sold as unused is there any gum missing such as from previous hinging. Gum that shows aging and toning may be a factor unless common to that issue. Some gums will crack with age.
Check if the catalog value is with or without gum. A stamp generally without that has gum will be worth more.
- Watermarks can make a stamp common or very valuable something you cannot check online unless the seller provides an image..
- Stamps with a straight edge are "generally" not as desirable.
- Postmarks and cancels. If you buy used, a heavy cancel that covers too much of the design may not be desirable. Some early stamps had very heavy cancels and are the norm.
- Don't assume that used stamps are worth less, some used ones are worth much more than unused but the issue of forged cancels may be present.
- Postmarks should preferable be light and fairly legible as they can add history to the stamp.
- Stamps with overprints are by far the most faked stamps of all, this can be VERY hard to detect and is prevalent even in inexpensive stamps.
- Perfins, stamps that have little manufactured holes in them are generally not sought after by most collectors. Some specialize in them and Commonwealth stamps with SPECIMEN on them can be worth much more.
Many sellers seem to be confused with the difference between a Mint and an Unused stamp - mint is the condition when newly obtained at the post office originally.
Condition 3
Price
- Have a checklist of stamps that interest you and do some homework on recent asking and selling prices as opposed to catalog values.
- If you are interested in a particular series, always try to get the WHOLE set, unless valuable, that missing one can elude you for a long time.
- Reasonable stamp store owners will discount the catalog value. Most have enough experience to know this as opposed to many online sellers who do not.
- If you intend to make a substantial purchase - negotiate a price comfortable for both parties. A good relationship with a store owner is very valuable for future dealings.
- If you buy online, avoid sellers who don't provide clear specifications and use meaningless descriptions like "rare", "wow", "great value", "from an old collection" and have poor quality images. These sellers know nothing about their product and value. - Stamps sold with a high "grading" can be more expensive but the grading system may well be meaningless and just hype to boost the price. If the above criteria applies and you like the look, feel and price - buy it.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on May 20, 2018 1:09:32 GMT
Thank you all for your excellent help
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Post by rrstamps4me on May 23, 2018 12:15:50 GMT
I saw an article a couple of years ago, that has helped me a lot.
It said in part, 'If you are collecting a series or set, buy the most expensive items from that set that you can afford at the time first.'
After acquiring these, the lower values are much easier to add later as you find them.
It is heart breaking to be at a show and buying a number of the lower values to fill a set, the after your budget is mostly spent, finding one of the higher values in great condition at a good price. Now you either pass until later or blow the budget.
I strive to keep myself and my budget on good terms with my wonderfully patient and understanding wife.
So, I have found, expensive first when you can, then fill in the rest.
Patrick
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ajkitt
Member 
Inactive
Posts: 175
What I collect: Classics, Central Europe, World
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Post by ajkitt on May 25, 2018 4:43:43 GMT
Just to throw in a different perspective here... Remember these bits every time you look at a stamp:
- Stamps have virtually NO intrinsic value to anyone other than a stamp collector, and the dealer knows it
- It's YOUR collection. What kind of condition are you okay with? Price drops very fast in the face of flaws.
- Catalogs are just guides, and most of them are relational anyhow (relative, as opposed to actual or realizable, value). Further, they reflect the values of the high end of the quality spectrum - even minor flaws can (and should) reduce the price substantially. Myself, I'm perfectly fine with "mint no gum," and I've dug up quite a few spectacular copies of rare stamps for less than 5-10% of even the Scott value (one of the few 'realizable value' guides).
- If you are in any way uncomfortable with any aspect of a purchase, be ready to walk away. There are very few cases in which "there is only one." Whatever it is, you will eventually see it again
- Do NOT be afraid to "haggle." Dealers expect it, and they won't sell you a stamp for less than they're willing to part with it for. And, the ones I haggle with the most are the ones with whom I have the best relationships - they see me coming and they know I'm there to BUY.
- And, of course, the best way to find good deals is to buy lots and sell or trade off the ones you don't want. The downside is that selling isn't so easy, and you may be stuck with a lot of money tied up in excess stamps.
Hope this helps... |
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