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Post by deniseb on Nov 11, 2022 8:06:32 GMT
I just read, let's call it, a informative discussion about perforation measurements and stamp measurements. I kind of got a rough idea how to do the measurements now from that discussion but what I'm not sure about is, what is the purpose of measuring them? what does it tell us? Is it a way to identify them or is there another reason?
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Post by michael on Nov 11, 2022 8:51:54 GMT
deniseb Printers often used different perforation machines when they reprinted stamps. The perfortion size helps collectors determine which printing their stamp is from. Also some stamps were printed by different printers and again a change of perforation helps with identification. Here is an example, in 1895 the stamp on the left was printed (perf 12). A year later they were reprinted with a different perforation (perf 12½). Same printer, same paper, same colour, so without this different perforation it would be difficult to tell them apart.
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vikingeck
Member 
Posts: 3,266
What I collect: Samoa, Tobacco theme, Mail in Wartime, anything odd and unusual!
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Post by vikingeck on Nov 11, 2022 9:51:12 GMT
deniseb. The accepted standard gauge for measuring perforations is the number of pins ( ie holes) in 2 cm, typically between 10 and 14. Though some early issues had as low as 9 or others up to 16; and if the horizontal machine differs from the vertical then catalogues will show the numbers as “horizontally x vertical.” Eg. “13 x 14 “ etc
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Post by deniseb on Nov 11, 2022 10:14:03 GMT
Am I able to post pictures even if I hadn't reached my 50 comments? My cell doesn't give me the option to but my tablet does I just haven't tried it to see if I can. There are some stamps I would really love to post to get information on. One of them being what I thought was the same stamp, turned out to be a possibility of different ones. According to what I looked up in the Scott catalog, That one stamp in particular has multiple different types of print and I have no idea how to tell them apart. There is one that I think I could say is different because the color is different. It's slightly lighter, whereas before I just thought it was loved a little more than the others.
So I'm assuming that one way to tell them apart would be the perf measurements But I'm sure there's other ways.
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tomiseksj
Moderator 
Woodbridge, Virginia, USA
Posts: 6,265 
What I collect: Worldwide stamps/covers, Cinderellas, Ohio Prepaid Sales Tax Receipts, U.S. WWII Ration ephemera
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Post by tomiseksj on Nov 11, 2022 12:56:39 GMT
Am I able to post pictures even if I hadn't reached my 50 comments? ... Yes you can. In the Frequently Asked Questions About Using the Forum board, you will find a thread describing the 3 methods available for posting images. |
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philatelia
Member
Captain Jack - my best kiloware find ever!
Posts: 3,404
What I collect: Ireland, Japan, Scandy, USA, Venezuela, Vatican, Bermuda, Austria
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Post by philatelia on Nov 11, 2022 15:21:16 GMT
deniseb - I’ll be able to help you with many of these questions during our phone chat that we discussed. Apologies for the delay - hurricane prep and stuff kept us busy. I’m free pretty much all day today and tomorrow. Call at your convenience. 
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Post by gstamps on Nov 13, 2022 9:18:52 GMT
deniseb I use a simple transparent ruler and I am satisfied with the results. It is important to align the edge of the ruler tangent to the holes and the marking on the left symmetrically on the hole. I measure the distance over 10 holes (this way I reduce the reading error) = 16.8 mm The distance between 2 adjacent holes is : 16.8 : 10 = 1.68 mm. Since perforation is defined as the number of holes over a distance of 20 mm, there is only one more operation: 20 : 1.68 = 11.90 - rounded 12 perforation. The catalogs generally give the perforation values rounded to 0.5 mm or 0.25 mm. 
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Post by deniseb on Nov 13, 2022 21:06:44 GMT
deniseb - I’ll be able to help you with many of these questions during our phone chat that we discussed. Apologies for the delay - hurricane prep and stuff kept us busy. I’m free pretty much all day today and tomorrow. Call at your convenience. I'm sorry I missed our time frame but unfortunately I was fairly sick for a few days is there another day that would work for you? I hope you made it through the hurricane unsaved. |
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Post by deniseb on Nov 13, 2022 21:45:16 GMT
deniseb I use a simple transparent ruler and I am satisfied with the results. It is important to align the edge of the ruler tangent to the holes and the marking on the left symmetrically on the hole. I measure the distance over 10 holes (this way I reduce the reading error) = 16.8 mm The distance between 2 adjacent holes is : 16.8 : 10 = 1.68 mm. Since perforation is defined as the number of holes over a distance of 20 mm, there is only one more operation: 20 : 1.68 = 11.90 - rounded 12 perforation. The catalogs generally give the perforation values rounded to 0.5 mm or 0.25 mm. That's really good advice I appreciate it, and it's something I could definitely try. I have been slowly purchasing the tools that are being suggested on the site. I have tongs coming and I did buy a jewelry loop, but it only has 60x magnification as an option. I'm not sure if that's too much or not, but the price was right and a place to start with. It's got a regular light, and it's got the UV light. I don't know if that makes a difference or not or exactly what I would be looking for, but now that I'm feeling better can't wait to start exploring my stamps with it. I do also have a perforation gauge coming and will experiment with that as well to get to know it. The rest of the stuff like the watermark tray and fluids I'm sure can wait but if I'm not mistaken I was given some advice on another things I could use, if not it was on another thread I came across,so I know there's ways of getting around it without spending the money per say. I also made a bit of a impulsive purchase. I came across somebody on eBay who's cleaning out there supply of stamps and had them listed for $3.50 US for a 100+ stamps, which includes anything from new unused, used, albums full sheets, block sets, and (I can't remember what it's called) The ones that are in the display cases. All of which are picked randomly. Apparently none of the stamps have been checked or graded, so I figured it's a good way to start learning how to recognize the difference and , if I'm lucky, the uniqueness of stamps. It's also a good way to expand my collection, because with that price I actually got 12 bundles. Kind of curious what everyone's opinion is on whether I made a smart choice or a bad one. Keep in mind my collection is fairly small. My grandmother had been the one to start it back in 1975 when I was born and completed sets from 1980 to 1987. She also told me that the coins with the stamps are part of a set, but I have no idea what stamps they belong to. Everything else that I have is what I've acquired myself. |
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philatelia
Member
Captain Jack - my best kiloware find ever!
Posts: 3,404
What I collect: Ireland, Japan, Scandy, USA, Venezuela, Vatican, Bermuda, Austria
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Post by philatelia on Nov 14, 2022 0:47:31 GMT
deniseb - I’ll be able to help you with many of these questions during our phone chat that we discussed. Apologies for the delay - hurricane prep and stuff kept us busy. I’m free pretty much all day today and tomorrow. Call at your convenience. I'm sorry I missed our time frame but unfortunately I was fairly sick for a few days is there another day that would work for you? I hope you made it through the hurricane unsaved. No problem at all! Send me a private message here when you have some free time. Sorry to hear you were sick - hope you’re feeling better! And THANK YOU to everyone for all the great answers you’ve posted! Isn’t this a great group? |
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