New Zealand: Chalons - 1855-1873

And here are three different shades of the Richardson print. Interesting to see the middle one at the top has green coming through. It does not look like a repair, so not sure what that is. I think it is SG 26 (same as previous post) SG 16 and SG 16. CP and Odenweller only have two colors.


 

All examples are of very worn obliterators. Many years of use there!

The one where it is 'most' clear what number it is, is the PB '15' of Nelson - the 3rd item above, the 1d orange-vermillion of 1864-1871.

The middle item, the 2d vermillion, looks to be the PB'18' of Port Chalmers. There were 2 obliterators with the number '18' both were sent to Dunedin initially, with one of the two (type B) being sent up the harbour to Port Chalmers.
It is quite worn.

Here they are when a little less worn:

Dunedin (type A) & Port Chalmers (type B)


Your other one, the first one you show - the 1/- does look a little like a '13' but just remember - that the'13' was very little used and didn't wear much - unlike some of the others. I believe, from what I see, is that it may be a very worn (type A) '18' of Dunedin.

Here is my '13'.



'13' is the scarcest of the PB numbers - believed used at Rangitikei (now named 'Bulls').

Dave

Definately 'heavily' repaired. Poss. re-backed and 'painted in' margin and other areas.

Dave

Hi Mark, the list of Otago letter number obliterators not yet shown, at least as I have it is as follows: 4, 6, 9, 10, 11, 21, 26, 27, 33, 35, 36, 38 - 43, 45, 47 - 52, 56, 59, 61, 63 - 69. 

A comment on shade, I think many of us, including myself, tend to forget that these early chalons are now 160+ years old and have been exposed to a whole range of environmental conditions, have been subjected to all sorts of treatments by various owners like hot water baths to remove old hinges and other qunk, peroxide for removing oxidation, mild bleach to remove foxing, which has resulted in fading and other colour changes. Add to this the fact that some of the shade divisions are somewhat arbitrary, with changes happening within some printing runs, and sorting these stamps into anything more than broad shade groups is problematic. Some shades are distinctly different and were the result of different print runs but will still so variation within each shade. It's always lovely to see bright sharp colours but as time goes on this will probably become less common. Some colours such as the 1d vermillion and orange-vermillion Davies prints have stood up really well, others like the 2d ultramarines on pelure paper are fading away. You can still occasionally see a fresh looking 2d pelure but they are becoming rare.

Philip

Hi all
Yes couldn't agree more with the difficulty of shades considering time / printings / mint verses used / atmospheric conditions / human interference etc
Here are some my from collection of the SG44-46 group ( some with certificates )


SG44 Bluish-green



SG45 Olive-green ( with certificate )



SG45 Bronze-green ( with two certificates )



SG45 Mint Yellow-green ( with certificate )



SG45 Used Yellow-green ( with certificate )



SG45 Deep Yellow-green



SG45 Yellow-green ( with certificate )



SG45 Yellow-green

Lovely examples Grant.

Some of the shades are quite subtle (understatement!) but we can see some differences, even on our screens.
I am sure that I have some of those shades, other than yellow-green, but loath to confirm.

It would be great to be able to confirm with a one-on-one comparison with somebody who has genuine certified copies.
Perhaps its about time I joined the local stamp society!! :-)

I shall scan some of mine in this weekend ...

Dave

Here are a few more of my 1 /- The first is probably SG 16, the third SG46, but what is the middle one. I do not see a star or NZ on the retroreveal (RGBW-G is shown, but none show it). The color is wrong for no watermark. Is it rebacked? The top right and the Right looks like the margin might have been added,


 

This is a beauty Mark.
Do you have a better scan of it front & back?

A nice PB '2' obliterator of Russell as well :-)

Dave

Hi Philip,

I am no expert on this, but if the paper is laid on the press, the printed side would be up, this means that the left of the back scan is actually on the right, and your stamp is from column 11, which is also on the right. The curve on your stamp is then facing so that the text would run left from it away from the edge. Although, I could be wrong.

Nice to see an example of what to look for.

Regards,

Mark

Wow Mark. Why are you trying to make a repair fall apart? I don't understand!

Both Philip and my examples were by accident not realising that the stamps were repaired, until the repairs failed in plain warm water.

Are you just experimenting? Are you sure that the item you are experimenting on is actually a repaired example? Maybe its not!

HP3% is used solely to clean up the effects of oxidation as discussed previously.

Have you got a scan of the item you are experimenting on?

Cheers

From this area in Red :



Dave

I see :-)

Hot water for as long as it takes I suppose then ..... but it will not be as 'good' as it looks now :-( and its value will drop even more than it is worth currently!

As a space filler it is very reasonable (if you didn't have another).

If you do make it fall apart then please do show us the results won't you.

Dave

Hi Dave
You too have some great copies, virtually all four margins.
Very hard to make any comment via a scan, but I would like to see a real life view of the left hand stamp on the 4th pair and the right hand stamp of the top row of three. There is a hint of "blue-green".
Cheers Grant